View of Battambang

A fertilized duck egg

Tried fried insects

Sticky rice in a bamboo tube. Favourite dessert!

Another Khmer dessert featuring sticky rice, coconut shavings, sesame seeds, and palm sugar

At Wat Banan

Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau

If I left my heart somewhere in Cambodia, it’s probably in Battambang. It was here that I developed a close-knit relationship with my Battambang host family. They were hospitable and kind-hearted, and I felt the love and depth of care emanating from their hearts. Together, we celebrated Cambodian New Year with young locals.

Celebrating this festive event in Cambodia was a first for me, and I was impressed by the spirit of the community; everyone participated, laughed, and had fun. It’s tradition for locals to line the streets holding water guns, buckets of water, and bottles of baby powder, and to shoot them at passersby. I myself joined in and got completely soaked, and by the end of it looked like a geisha gone wrong! In essence, I had a wonderful time filled with laughter. We also attended live performances and floated lanterns into the night sky.

As for the eats? Well, being the adventurers that we are, before coming on our trip we made a pact that we’d try bizarre foods in Battambang. It was unfortunate, however, that we were only able to find fried insects and fertilized duck eggs. (I’ve eaten the latter before — pretty good, I dare say.) A sure food highlight for me, though, was eating Khmer desserts, my favourite being sticky rice in a bamboo tube, also known as “num krolan.”

Decades of making “num krolan” and a star at what she does

Another highlight of Battambang was having a traditional Khmer picnic in a bamboo hut which sat above the water. A usual Khmer picnic often involves ordering and sharing an array of dishes, and at the end of the meal, retiring to a nearby hammock for a relaxing afternoon nap. But, fret not. Besides stuffing ourselves, we also exercised by visiting Wat Banan, which involved a hyperventilating climb of over 300 steps!

Phnom Sampeau, where the killing caves are located, was another mountainous site that involved a steep climb. Here we saw the skeletons and skulls of those who’d been bludgeoned to death and then tossed down this cave during the Khmer Rouge Regime. Every evening at dusk, millions of bats pour out of this cave. This astonishing sight lasts for about a good half hour.

Occheuteal beach in Sihanoukville

Sunset on Occheuteal beach

Kep

Selling waffles in a mini food market in Kep

The last places we visited in Cambodia were Sihanoukville and Kep. The beaches in Sihanoukville were lovely, and it was common to see people walking around selling food on the spot and offering massages. I enjoyed spending time with our Battambang host family and eating seafood by the beach every day. (Except that I got eaten alive by sand fleas.)

Kep was just as stunning — if not more so. The drive along the stretch of the water was very scenic. I was lucky to stumble upon a lovely lady at the market who made some fine waffles, some of which were plain and some of which were filled with sweet beans and coconut. Just what I was craving. I think I stuffed myself unconscious that day!

Something to note is that Cambodia is home to some exquisite islands, such as Koh Kong, Koh Rong, Koh Tonsay, Song Saa Private Island, and Koh Ta Kiev, most of which aren’t so well known and visited (which is why they’re gems). It’s unfortunate that I didn’t get to visit them this time around. Alas, next time.

Phnom Penh was followed by a trip to Siem Reap, and on the way there, we stopped at this awe-inspiring ancient bridge called the “Kampong Kdei Bridge.” Built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, it was recognized as the longest bridge in the world with corbel stone arches. Notice the Naga head.

At Banteay Srei.

Monkeys were everywhere in Angkor! I fed them bananas and found them to be quite amusing characters. One even sat on a motorcycle and checked itself out in the mirror.

Meet our new friends

I met these three beautiful children at a local village in Siem Reap. When the boy’s mother put him down and walked off to attend to her tasks, he began crying, and when I picked him up and carried him, he stopped and stared at me intently with a shy grin on his face. (He was naked by the way.) Moments like these tugged at my heartstrings, for they served as reminders that love and compassion extend beyond socially- and politically-constructed identities, and are universal in nature. Suffice it to say, we became friends after that.

First tuk tuk ride!

My first time watching a live Apsara dance performance. The dancers were adorned with decorative accessories, making them appear like enchanting goddesses. The dance was breathtaking, too — elegant, graceful, feminine. Such grace of movement!

Angkor Wat, dating from the early 12th century, is the largest religious monument ever built. Upon entering, I was rendered speechless, for it was beautiful — and almost hauntingly so. I experienced, at once, a deep appreciation for the beauty of Khmer architecture and a feeling of sadness for the loss of what once was an exceptional civilization. Angkor Wat is undoubtedly a long-standing remnant of an extraordinary empire, carrying within its walls spirits of the past.

I remember how peaceful I felt praying at this holy site. (Not to mention how surreal it felt to be praying in one of the most ancient temples in the world.) I was also blessed by a monk who tied a beautifully-scented red ribbon around my wrist, adorned me with holy water, and chanted prayers offering me blessings. It was both a sacred and heartwarming moment for me. I continued wearing the ribbon until I returned to Canada, at which point to preserve it, I snipped it off and stored it in a treasured place.

Carvings of Apsara dancers. Such intricate details of carvings are spectacular and are found at every nook and cranny of Angkor Wat. If I were to trace every single detail of this temple with my fingers, it would probably take me many lifetimes.

Final goodbyes to Angkor Wat.

Gateway into Angkor Thom. It was at this site that I began to feel sick. I don’t think there was a moment more comical during my stay in Cambodia than emergency tuk tuk-ing to a washroom, only to be greeted by a baby gecko on the wall, on top of feeling as though I was physically disintegrating and on the verge of saying goodbye to earthly life.

At Prasat Bayon, which lies at the heart of Angkor Thom. Notice the giant stone faces.

Ta Prohm

Apparently, this was one of the sites where Angelina Jolie’s Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001) was filmed.

Preah Khan temple

There’s me feeling like an ant!

From atop the Baphuon is a magnificent view of the ruins. This temple is known for its built-in reclining buddha statue, which can be easily overlooked if not keenly observed.

In retrospect, when I entered Angkor, a “city” of over 400 square kilometres which served as the heart of the Khmer Empire from approximately the 9th to the 15th century, I was at a loss for words. Home to countless abandoned temples, Angkor was so majestic it was humbling, and I feel blessed to have had the chance to witness it at least once in my lifetime. And to think that I’d only seen a small chunk of it!

Here’s a traditional Khmer dish called “amok.” My first taste of it (besides what I can recall from childhood) was in Siem Reap. This version of “amok” consisted of fish and veggies steamed in coconut milk curry and wrapped in banana leaves. It was so delicious, I ate the whole thing! From that point on, it became the dish that my body and soul longed for.

The time I spent in Asia was short; however, if I counted moments instead of days, it felt like a lifetime. Each day was an adventure filled with surprises, from being greeted by a gang of cackling chickens in a washroom, to stumbling upon a fortune teller, who awakened a spark in me, to witnessing the disheartening inequalities between the poorest of the poor and the richest of the rich. In essence, we’d experienced it all — the bizarre, the marvellous, the sweat, the tears, the smiles, the laughs.

What’s striking is that I felt most at home when I didn’t have a place called home, and was on the constant move from one place to another. I’ve met strangers along the way who’ve felt like family — family I never knew. Thus I understood that home is where the heart is. In retrospect, I regret not having extended my stay, or better yet, buying a one-way ticket at the beginning. But for what it is, it’s been a beautiful and humbling journey — certainly one of self-discovery, and I’m grateful for the experience.

Something I really enjoyed during my stay in Phnom Penh was exploring street vendors and food night markets. If you’d like a taste of authenticity, rather than visiting touristic restaurants, opt for local. Eating like a local is not only inexpensive, but the food is delicious and watching the vendors cook live is a neat experience. I also loved trying an array of traditional Khmer desserts, which can cost as little as 500 – 2000 riel (4000 riel is about 1 USD).

The fish section at Orussey Market wasn’t the greatest smelling place to be, but I purposely sought it out; after all, I was on a mission to buy some “trei ngeat!” A staple in the traditional Khmer household, “trei ngeat” is essentially dried, preserved fish (quite salty) that’s often eaten with rice or rice porridge. My favourite type of “trei ngeat” is called “trei ngeat samyong,” and it’s made sweet.

If you’re a true Khmer, you can’t visit Cambodia and not shop for dried fish to bring back home with you. (Not that I was raised in a traditional Khmer household either — far from it — which is why this feat is ironic and comical.) I purchased a few kilos to share with my family; depending on the fish, the price can range anywhere from 10 to 70 USD a kilo. These perishable items are also quite travel-friendly; they just need to be wrapped and sealed well, and vendors will happily help foreign customers with it.

Markets selling handcrafts, souvenirs, clothes, jewellery, beauty supplies, and home goods abound in Phnom Penh, so another exciting development for me was learning the art of bargaining. Here’s a tip: Give your lowest price and then work your way up. I was particularly fond of all of the paintings and the hand-carved sculptures of Apsara dancers, mythological figures, and temples made out of such bases as wood, stone, and metal.

The Royal Palace. Visiting the scene was heart-warming for me because it’s where my mother used to practice Khmer classical dances when she was young. It was also neat seeing the university where my father studied. He was part of the choir at the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh in the years preceding the Genocide, and was nicknamed “kon saw” — literally translated as “white son” — by King Norodom Sihanouk, due to his light skin colour as a Chinese. Needless to say, it would’ve been enriching if my parents were able to accompany me on my trip; I would’ve loved to have been given a glimpse into their past.

While sitting in a tuk tuk in traffic, sometimes we’d be approached by someone selling these traditional handmade Khmer jasmine garlands, and every time I saw a basket of them, I experienced a surge of joy. My mother loved jasmine flowers — we call them “pka malis” in Khmer — and we even grew them in our home when I was a child.

Sometimes I’d buy these garlands and place them under my pillow for a lovely scent; other times I’d buy them and hang them in the tuk tuk for the driver and his clients to enjoy. It was a way for me to support families especially the children selling them.

“Phsar Thmei” market

Speaking of crossing, an interesting sight in Phnom Penh was the traffic and the driving. Ay Caramba! If you’ve been to Phnom Penh, you’d know what I mean. So if there’s something else I learned, it’s the art of crossing the street, which tends to involve closing both eyes and taking a leap of faith. (Not sure if I’m crazy or if I’ve just reached a heightened state of enlightenment. Pretty sure it’s the former.)

Recently, I went on a road trip to Atlantic City, New Jersey with my brother and his family. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision that resulted in me packing my bags in only minutes. But I appreciate spontaneity — it adds some spice to life.

Although we hit the road in the early hours of the morning, it took us the whole day to arrive at our destination since, besides taking a few breaks along the way, at one point, we got lost — and miserably so. Thus, by the time we arrived at our hotel, it was almost midnight. But I was glad the kids were still up, because the hotel lights from afar were splendid when we were driving in.

The day after our arrival, rather than relaxing on the beach with my family, I decided to take a stroll alone along the boardwalk strip instead, capturing photos and exploring food venues. Initially, I was on the hunt for an ice cream cone, but then I stumbled upon Boardwalk Cupcakes, a cute-as-a-button cupcake shop, whose colourful banner was enough to tickle my curiosity and lure me in.

Given all the time in the world, I would’ve spent the day sampling all the flavours on the menu, for they looked tummy-satisfying. But because I had kids to entertain, I left my wild cupcake fantasies aside and headed over to the beach, where I surprised my nieces with a box of Oreo and strawberry cupcakes. The munchkins screamed in excitement.

My brother and sister-in-law, who aren’t big dessert eaters, thought these cupcakes were divine and not overly sweet. They also laughed at the fact that I kept appearing at the beach with food and then disappearing, only to reappear with more food and then disappear again. I don’t deny my strangeness but I figured they’d be hungry since they were at the beach all day.

I wish I’d taken a walk along the strip our final night there and witnessed the spectacular views, especially when A was kind enough to invite me out. Instead, because my batteries had reached complete depletion after a long day of exploring, I fell asleep like a baby. Not to mention I felt psychologically exhausted.

On our way home, we took a final stop at the Woodbury outlet in Central Valley, NY. Exploring and people-watching was pleasant, but part of me still couldn’t wrap my head around the hype surrounding designer clothes, shoes, cosmetics, and handbags. Go figure. The only item I’d purchased was pizza. A whole box of it. And it was amazing.

Looking in retrospect, getting lost was quite an adventure. It was an experience where, not only did I trust my intuition and take initiative, but also one in which, despite the external conditions surrounding me, I made a conscious decision to maintain a healthy internal landscape, watering only the seeds of trust, compassion, patience, and perseverance. Lessons in challenges. Always.