Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Day 1: One with the car seat

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The time I spent in Asia was short; however, if I counted moments instead of days, it felt like a lifetime. Each day was an adventure filled with surprises, from being greeted by a gang of cackling chickens in a washroom, to stumbling upon a fortune teller, who awakened a spark in me, to witnessing the disheartening inequalities between the poorest of the poor and the richest of the rich. In essence, we’d experienced it all — the bizarre, the marvellous, the sweat, the tears, the smiles, the laughs.

What’s striking is that I felt most at home when I didn’t have a place called home, and was on the constant move from one place to another. I’ve met strangers along the way who’ve felt like family — family I never knew. Thus I understood that home is where the heart is. In retrospect, I regret not having extended my stay, or better yet, buying a one-way ticket at the beginning. But for what it is, it’s been a beautiful and humbling journey — certainly one of self-discovery, and I’m grateful for the experience.

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Something I really enjoyed during my stay in Phnom Penh was exploring street vendors and food night markets. If you’d like a taste of authenticity, rather than visiting touristic restaurants, opt for local. Eating like a local is not only inexpensive, but the food is delicious and watching the vendors cook live is a neat experience. I also loved trying an array of traditional Khmer desserts, which can cost as little as 500 – 2000 riel (4000 riel is about 1 USD).

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The fish section at Orussey Market wasn’t the greatest smelling place to be, but I purposely sought it out; after all, I was on a mission to buy some “trei ngeat!” A staple in the traditional Khmer household, “trei ngeat” is essentially dried, preserved fish (quite salty) that’s often eaten with rice or rice porridge. My favourite type of “trei ngeat” is called “trei ngeat samyong,” and it’s made sweet.

If you’re a true Khmer, you can’t visit Cambodia and not shop for dried fish to bring back home with you. (Not that I was raised in a traditional Khmer household either — far from it — which is why this feat is ironic and comical.) I purchased a few kilos to share with my family; depending on the fish, the price can range anywhere from 10 to 70 USD a kilo. These perishable items are also quite travel-friendly; they just need to be wrapped and sealed well, and vendors will happily help foreign customers with it.

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Markets selling handcrafts, souvenirs, clothes, jewellery, beauty supplies, and home goods abound in Phnom Penh, so another exciting development for me was learning the art of bargaining. Here’s a tip: Give your lowest price and then work your way up. I was particularly fond of all of the paintings and the hand-carved sculptures of Apsara dancers, mythological figures, and temples made out of such bases as wood, stone, and metal.

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The Royal Palace. Visiting the scene was heart-warming for me because it’s where my mother used to practice Khmer classical dances when she was young. It was also neat seeing the university where my father studied. He was part of the choir at the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh in the years preceding the Genocide, and was nicknamed “kon saw” — literally translated as “white son” — by King Norodom Sihanouk, due to his light skin colour as a Chinese. Needless to say, it would’ve been enriching if my parents were able to accompany me on my trip; I would’ve loved to have been given a glimpse into their past.

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While sitting in a tuk tuk in traffic, sometimes we’d be approached by someone selling these traditional handmade Khmer jasmine garlands, and every time I saw a basket of them, I experienced a surge of joy. My mother loved jasmine flowers — we call them “pka malis” in Khmer — and we even grew them in our home when I was a child.

Sometimes I’d buy these garlands and place them under my pillow for a lovely scent; other times I’d buy them and hang them in the tuk tuk for the driver and his clients to enjoy. It was a way for me to support families especially the children selling them.

“Phsar Thmei” market

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Speaking of crossing, an interesting sight in Phnom Penh was the traffic and the driving. Ay Caramba! If you’ve been to Phnom Penh, you’d know what I mean. So if there’s something else I learned, it’s the art of crossing the street, which tends to involve closing both eyes and taking a leap of faith. (Not sure if I’m crazy or if I’ve just reached a heightened state of enlightenment. Pretty sure it’s the former.)

Grandma sheep and baby sheep

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This year, I spent Christmas and New Year’s with family in Montreal and had a memorable time. Some of the highlights were visiting the Grande Bibliothèque for the first time; seeing baby Andy, the newest addition to the family; having a heart-warming late night conversation with my sister-in-law, for which I’m very thankful; watching movies and playing games with my parents, brother, and little nieces; attending my cousin’s New Year’s gathering, where I witnessed a low key but sweet proposal; and baking candy cane and thumbprint cookies for my sister’s co-workers and friends.

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These festive thumbprint cookies were very easy to make; I used a recipe that required only four ingredients. I didn’t roll the dough in orange zest, toasted almonds, or crushed candy canes either, which I had done last year. But simple really does wonders, you guys, because these cookies had great reviews! A delicious treat for all the jam lovers (hint hint), or for those who simply appreciate soft butter cookies with just a touch of sweetness.

I felt ecstatic when my sister decided to bake these with me. Baking isn’t her cup of tea, nor did we share any hobbies or passions growing up, so baking together that evening definitely made for an intimate moment. Props to her for doing the jam filling!

Thumbprint cookies

Ingredients

  • 1 cup unsalted butter, softened
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup white sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup raspberry jam

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C).
  2. Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add sifted flour and mix well, then add vanilla. Shape dough into 1 inch balls and place on cookie sheets. Imprint your thumb in the centre to make an indent. Fill with jam.
  3. Bake for about 10 minutes or until golden brown at the edges.

See original recipe here: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/rosenmunnar/

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Meanwhile, Happy New Year! Wishing all of you the very best — love, happiness, health, success, and all the wonderful things that life has to offer.

From myself and little Miami, the furry ball of sass you see there, who also sends you sweet wishes. 

There goes Daddy Long Legs

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Hiking on Wolf Trail. This trail leads to one of the highest points in Gatineau Park, and stopping at the lookouts for snack and lunch breaks while enjoying the picturesque views was really neat! Steep as it was, I still enjoyed the climbs and the muddy and slippery slopes, and would’ve actually liked to have gone at an even faster pace or tried running the entire way. It’s nice to step out of your comfort zone, for it’s in that mystical area that you discover your hidden potentials, and a world of possibilities await.

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After an awesome hike, while the sillies all went out for pizza, I craved a delicious hot drink instead, so I ventured on my own to Les Saisons Cafe Coffee House, a quaint little cafe just outside of Gatineau Park in Chelsea, Quebec. A pumpkin latte to warm up my body after a chilly day outside was just what I needed. Yum!

Thief of the village

Sunshine - eggs, sausages, baked beans, pancake filled with fruit and English cream, potatoes, toast & coffee

Sunshine – eggs, sausages, baked beans, pancake filled with fruit and English cream, potatoes, toast & coffee

Eggs Benedict - poached eggs and ham served on English muffin, topped with hollandaise sauce

Eggs Benedict – poached eggs and ham served on English muffin, topped with hollandaise sauce

Allô Mon Coco @ 239A boul. Samson, Laval, QC

I’m back home from visiting family in Montreal. I enjoyed spending time with the big sis; we had a fun-filled weekend. On Saturday, we had brunch at Allô Mon Coco, did errands during the day, and then attended her co-worker’s get-together in the evening.

I try to challenge myself to do something different every day, and attending a stranger’s intimate family gathering was certainly different for me. I’m grateful for being welcomed into their home and culture with such great warmth. Everyone was inviting, animated, and comical. Not to mention they even fed us enough to last an alpacalypse.

I also met their cat, Garfield, who of course resembles Garfield. However, I think Grumpy Cat sounds more fitting because he really does look grumpy. Besides that, his face looks as if it had defied the laws of physics. I’d post a photo of this ball of cuteness, but I’m afraid his spirit will murder me in my sleep.

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Meet Miami

Meet Miami

The following day, my sister took me on a tour around our childhood abode which I haven’t visited in years. She waited in the car while I walked about and explored, trying to trace footsteps to the past. It was unfortunate that I couldn’t recall much, which is why listening to her tell stories about our childhood was so enticing. Who would’ve known I had a thing for hiding in the corner of Harvey’s and pooping? (In my diaper, that is.)

While in the area, we also visited my cousin and I met her dog, Miami, for the first time. I find it really precious that once her dog arrives home from a walk, she’d run straight to the bathtub and wait for her paws to be washed. I think this deepens my desire to become what my friend calls a petophile, driving around in a white van and kidnapping animals. Either that, or becoming something along the lines of a tree whisperer, a cat whisperer, or in this case, even a dog whisperer.

Marché Jean-Talon @ 7070 Avenue Henri Julien, Montréal, QC

Together, my sister, cousin and I took a trip to Jean-Talon Market, a farmer’s market located in the Little Italy district of Montreal. It was my first time there, and I really enjoyed scanning the endless aisles of fresh produce and witnessing the heartfelt interactions between the friendly staff and keen customers. There’s just a communal and inviting vibe to farmer’s markets that makes me feel a deep sense of belonging. My moment of utmost failure, though, was when I bit into my sandwich and my sausage flew. I’m sure it was entertaining for the world to witness.

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Ponki

Ponki

Spiced hearts

Spiced hearts

Wawel Pâtisserie Polonaise @ 3628 Bld. St-Laurent, Montréal, QC

Call it serendipity, call it synchronicity. But on our way to Kitsuné, of all places, we parked in front of a Polish bakery. I have a love affair with traditional Polish spiced or gingerbread cookies, and for quite some time have been trying to find a local Polish bakery that sells them. I even asked my good Polish friend for some pointers. So stumbling upon this humble little shop, and so unexpectedly, was quite a blessing. The spiced hearts and ponki were a delight! A note to all who wish to see the next sunrise: Please, hands off my cookies, because this is what I’d call a crime of passion.

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Maple syrup waffle - waffle topped with blueberries and strawberries, served with vanilla ice cream and maple syrup

Maple syrup waffle – waffle topped with blueberries and strawberries, served with vanilla ice cream and maple syrup

Juliette et Chocolat @ 3600 Bld. St-Laurent (coin Prince-Arthur), Montréal, QC

Vermicelli bowl with spring roll and pork

Vermicelli bowl with spring roll and pork

Restaurant Hoai Huong @ 5485 Avenue Victoria, Montréal, QC

I try to explore the coffee shop scene whenever I’m in Montreal, and Kitsuné, a gem of a cafe with a minimalist and eclectic feel, is one venue that’s been sitting on my list of places to visit. But since it was packed, we decided on an alternative: Juliette et Chocolat. Funnily, I’ve been meaning to try this dessert haven anyway, and to our luck, it was nestled in the corner of the street.

A perfect palm-sized portion, their Maple syrup waffle was oh-so-heavenly. It’s certainly satisfied my tigerous cravings for waffles. Desserts and hot choco were then followed by a visit to Restaurant Hoai Huong, which is now my top contender for the best vermicelli bowl. Methinks my body’s in a coma now from all the yummy food I ate this weekend. I probably need a new hobby.

On our own

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Autumn is my favourite season. Besides my affinity for sweater weather and all things pumpkin spice, I appreciate nature’s wisdom. She ebbs, she flows, she sails her own course, reminding me every day to embrace change and uncertainty, to practice non-attachment and non-resistance, and to enjoy this process we call life.

I’ve always wanted to spend a whole afternoon hibernating and immersing myself in nature, especially during the autumn season when the scenery is beginning to become a canvas of warm colours. Couple this with my thirst for outdoor activities and trying new things, and today, I did something different: I joined a hiking group, and together we set out on a journey in Gatineau Park.

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Even though the organizer never showed up, fellow hikers and I ended up hitching a ride together anyway. After all, dressed for the occasion and ready to go, we weren’t about to give in to a little mishap, and so we improvised our plans, and boy, did we have fun. We bonded on many levels and shared sweet conversations touching on spirituality, meditation, love, life. For strangers who’d just met, it felt as if we’ve been friends since time immemorial. Sometimes I’d encourage M to listen to the sound of water trickling; other times she’d point out species of plants to me. There were times when we even surrendered our senses to the environment and walked in complete silence.

What’s neat about joining such group outings is, not only do I get to meet people with similar hobbies and interests, but on a deeper level, I’m also matched with those who share similar values and perspectives on life. In fact, the speed at which we all became acquainted with each other today, sharing life experiences and hearty laughs, was quite remarkable.

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Meanwhile, I’m thankful for several things: spending a relaxing day outdoors and experiencing nature’s healing effect on my soul; meeting new people, receiving their kindness, and loving them as they are; purchasing children’s delicious baked goods and sharing them with loved ones; and being in the comforts of my own home, all bundled up after a chilly day outside.

Le mal du pays

My ideal Saturday afternoon involves hibernating at a bookstore, my humble abode, and reading. Yesterday, before meeting a friend, I ventured to Chapters, picked up Murakami’s Colorless Tsukuru Tazaki and His Years of Pilgrimage, sat in a quiet corner on the second floor, and read my afternoon away. Before I was aware of it, by the time I had to leave, I was already 136 pages into the book.

I’ve been meaning to see N ever since she stepped foot into the city for school, but due to work and volunteering, I couldn’t muster the time and energy to do it. So seeing her yesterday was sweet. We took a stroll in the ByWard Market, had brunch at Cacao 70, attended Nuit Blanche and witnessed the cool works of art, and tried steamed buns from Gonfu bao, a cart that I’ve been virtually stalking and meaning to try.

It wasn’t surprising that we ended up back at Chapters later that night, given it’s our second home. Despite feeling fatigued, we were still able to carry a stimulating discussion about doctoral theses and lab experiments, and the ethical issues with which they’re associated. We both purchased Murakami too. Sometimes I feel as if we’re an awkward, old couple. Like PB&J or Humpty Dumpty.

Atlantic City, New Jersey: Know thy geography

Recently, I went on a road trip to Atlantic City, New Jersey with my brother and his family. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision that resulted in me packing my bags in only minutes. But I appreciate spontaneity — it adds some spice to life.

Although we hit the road in the early hours of the morning, it took us the whole day to arrive at our destination since, besides taking a few breaks along the way, at one point, we got lost — and miserably so. Thus, by the time we arrived at our hotel, it was almost midnight. But I was glad the kids were still up, because the hotel lights from afar were splendid when we were driving in.

The day after our arrival, rather than relaxing on the beach with my family, I decided to take a stroll alone along the boardwalk strip instead, capturing photos and exploring food venues. Initially, I was on the hunt for an ice cream cone, but then I stumbled upon Boardwalk Cupcakes, a cute-as-a-button cupcake shop, whose colourful banner was enough to tickle my curiosity and lure me in.

Given all the time in the world, I would’ve spent the day sampling all the flavours on the menu, for they looked tummy-satisfying. But because I had kids to entertain, I left my wild cupcake fantasies aside and headed over to the beach, where I surprised my nieces with a box of Oreo and strawberry cupcakes. The munchkins screamed in excitement.

My brother and sister-in-law, who aren’t big dessert eaters, thought these cupcakes were divine and not overly sweet. They also laughed at the fact that I kept appearing at the beach with food and then disappearing, only to reappear with more food and then disappear again. I don’t deny my strangeness but I figured they’d be hungry since they were at the beach all day.

I wish I’d taken a walk along the strip our final night there and witnessed the spectacular views, especially when A was kind enough to invite me out. Instead, because my batteries had reached complete depletion after a long day of exploring, I fell asleep like a baby. Not to mention I felt psychologically exhausted.

On our way home, we took a final stop at the Woodbury outlet in Central Valley, NY. Exploring and people-watching was pleasant, but part of me still couldn’t wrap my head around the hype surrounding designer clothes, shoes, cosmetics, and handbags. Go figure. The only item I’d purchased was pizza. A whole box of it. And it was amazing.

Looking in retrospect, getting lost was quite an adventure. It was an experience where, not only did I trust my intuition and take initiative, but also one in which, despite the external conditions surrounding me, I made a conscious decision to maintain a healthy internal landscape, watering only the seeds of trust, compassion, patience, and perseverance. Lessons in challenges. Always.

Ray Donovan’s doppelgänger

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Cacao 70 @ 2087 Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest, Montréal, QC

After having dinner with our cousin S, M and I had a date night at Cacao 70, a dessert haven for all the chocolate (and sweets) lovers. I heard of Cacao 70 only after stumbling upon reviews of it here on WordPress, and ever since then, it became the first contender to occupy my list of dessert joints to visit in Montreal.

As anticipated, because it’s a popular late night dessert venue in the downtown area, it was packed. However, it was precisely the sight of young adult couples and friends around the room laughing and having a good time, that gave the atmosphere a vivacious and heart-warming touch. It’s no secret that each one of us share a weakness for sweets, and therefore, I think it’s safe to say, an unbreakable soul-to-soul understanding of each other’s life longings.

Scanning the shop, I couldn’t help but eyeball other people’s plates of delicious goodies. Classic chocolate fondue, chocolate marshmallow pizza, Nutella and fruit crepe, Tutti-Frutti waffle, raspberry brownie parfait — you name it, everything was on the menu. Although M likes crepes and I like waffles, we decided to share a plate of dessert as we were still recuperating from dinner, and together we compromised on a selection that could be said to have fallen from the heavens: the banana split waffle.

Topped with caramelized bananas, drizzled with melted milk chocolate, and served with a side of vanilla ice cream, chocolate-coated cereal, and chocolate melt, this plate was divine. The waffle was warm, soft, and fluffy; the caramelized bananas were sweet and crunchy from the coat of caramel; and the melted chocolate spelled heaven on earth for the chocolate fans.

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It was a breezy summer evening, and instead of heading straight home, M gave me a tour around Mount Royal knowing that I’ve been longing to visit the site again, as it’s been years since I’ve last stepped foot there. The site was beautiful — just as I remember it. In fact, sanding atop the mountain overlooking the mesmerizing city lights made me long for my childhood days.

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Meet Pepé Le Pew

Raccoons at Mount Royal! There were so many of them that everywhere I stepped, I could almost feel a little furry body brushing up against my legs. At first, I wasn’t sure if I should be running for the hills like my life depended on it, wrapping my limbs around a stranger’s back like a koala bear, or simply relaxing and befriending these raccoons.

Everywhere around me, visitors were petting, feeding, and playing with these wild raccoons without the slightest fear. In fact, one gent rolled on the ground next to a raccoon just to take a selfie. I couldn’t help but laugh, because one thing’s certain: Montrealers are hilarious and crazy. Especially crazy. I know because they’re my people.

Apparently, these raccoons are harmless because they’re already used to having human interaction, so it’s normal to feed and play with them. M told me that they can even be selective about what food they eat; that is, between regular chips and ketchup chips, they prefer the latter. I thought this was pretty funny.

Mother, father, babies — they were all so fluffy and chubbs that my inner Agnes was about to manifest itself. I even entertained the idea of kidnapping them and bringing them home with me. So adorable!

Varadero, Cuba: Small coconut, big coconut

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Near the end of our trip, we’d been asked by the kind gentleman in the blue cap, who we saw tending the garden every morning by our room, if we’d like some coconuts. Yes, please! Fresh coconut water on a hot spring day was heavenly. Something I would’ve loved to have tried though, was climb a tree and knock down a coconut myself.

Someone had been hard at work building this adorable elephant in the sand

Someone had been hard at work building this adorable elephant in the sand

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The second time we had coconuts, which we’d purchased from a stand by the beach, my sister was so bent on eating the meat that she flung her coconut on the floor of our room, hoping to smash it in two. (Now we know that if there’d been an earthquake at the resort, it was definitely her sassy coconut’s doing.)

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On our last night, during a Cuban dance performance, one of our friends — he had beautiful clear green eyes — had asked me to join him, and I knew what to do at that point: I pointed to my sister instead. That I put her on the spot and she was shy because of how handsome he was — which she didn’t care to admit, and let’s be real, everyone was watching — made for a comical and sweet moment. She was fantastic and she had a good time. Bystanders from the crowd joined in and it became a very fun night.

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I’ll miss Cuba and the people, most definitely. I’ll also miss spending time with the big sis — waking up and eating together, sharing jokes and laughing, and just having a relaxing time.

Havana, Cuba: A smile through a crack

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On the way to Havana, the bus stopped at this infamous piña colada shack for tourists to take a washroom break and grab refreshments. We had a choice of ordering the drink in a glass for 3 pesos, or in a fresh pineapple for 5. Of course we decided on the latter. And wow, this piña colada really was the best ever! Unbelievably rich and creamy.

Note that if you’re visiting Havana, be sure to bring toilet paper with you because you won’t be having access to any — that is, unless you feel like living life on the sexy lane, and drying yourself out in the sun and being one with nature.

La Bodeguita del Medio, a restaurant-bar in Old Havana, has become a go-to spot for tourists, as it’s been frequented by famous writers such as Pablo Neruda, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and Ernest Hemingway. If you visit flea markets, you’d see numerous paintings of this bar floating around.

Visiting Havana was undoubtedly the highlight of my trip to Cuba. I would’ve loved to have spent days and nights learning and exploring, and trying new things, even in the heat. The restless adventurer in me is never satisfied; she just wants to keep moving. It’s quite unfortunate, however, that we had only a day to explore the city.

Looking in retrospect, rather than staying at a resort and basking in the sun on the beach, I would’ve chosen to stay in a small residence and eat street food and experience life as a local instead. While I appreciated my time at the resort, it was important for me to escape the confines of this gated community of affluence, this environment of false perfection, that masked the realities of the inequalities existing all around us. I longed for imperfection. I longed to witness and experience everyday life out there in its most raw and authentic state. I longed to feel, for something to strike my soul.

The highlight of Havana was our visit to a children’s school. Through the crack of a classroom door, a beautiful little girl of about six years old with golden blonde hair, smiled and waved at my sister and me. Of course, we kindly smiled and waved back at her. Moments like these — watching children learn in school and exchanging smiles with a child — constitute life in all its authenticity, and bring me great joy.

I was also deeply touched when a friend came across a boy who, instead of eating the croissant she gave him, placed it in his pocket and saved it for his family. It’s in such a split second, which is so easily overlooked, that one witnesses the beauty of life — love, patience, dedication, sacrifice. I felt deeply with him from a human being to another, and from a heart to another. Had I been in his shoes, I would’ve done the same for those I love.

As time flies, I’m beginning to truly feel in all my being that when I choose to walk through life with an open heart and mind, and to operate from a place of acceptance, understanding, and compassion, beauty is everywhere, in all people, in all places, in all circumstances. And my brief visit to Havana has taught me a great deal about myself, and what I value most in my life.