At the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

A wat or temple in the outskirts of Phnom Penh

A year later, I found myself back in Cambodia for a second greeting, and as my time here reached an end, I experienced an array of emotions. Unlike last year’s trip, this year was ever more sentimental, as Cambodia had been narrated to us through my parents’ heart and soul, what was for my sister and I, a voyage into the past where we were given a chance to experience our parents’ lives from childhood right through to the Cambodian Genocide. It was also heartwarming to visit the temples where my family has long been active in building abodes and schools for monks.

We could see the Royal Palace from our hotel

Leaving a place is always hard when you’re tied to it through memories. I miss everything and everyone, especially my family whom I’ve met for only the first time. I even miss the bellmen at the hotel (whom I’ve met the year before) and the tuk tuk drivers, who never ceased to greet us with a smile. I also miss the atmosphere of our temporary abode and its warm and damp air upon entering the lobby, and eating breakfast by the pool on the rooftop. But most of all, I miss experiencing life on a daily basis — hibernating in a home with only arm’s length space, yet generous enough to house five dogs; taking the tuk tuk to crowded markets; and even the sound of beeping motorcycle and car horns every sunrise.

Food market in Kien Svay

There’s a great deal to miss about Phnom Penh, the food being unquestionably one of them. I had no filter when it came to food; I ate anything and everything. A bit reckless perhaps — which is why I was deathly sick in Siem Reap and my soul just about left my body — but alas, food is one of the wonderful ways of exploring a place, and I was certainly on no diet. Chives pancakes were among my favourite eats, and before I left for Japan, I visited the Central Market (Psar Thmei) for the last time.

Another thing I appreciated about Phnom Penh: the Aeon Mall, just because the food section was heaven on earth for me. With a raging sweet tooth, naturally I’d gravitate towards the dessert section, only to find the love of my life: sweet sticky rice with durian and coconut milk, a classic Khmer dessert. I love durian. I think it’s the sexiest fruit in the world.

View from the rooftop parking of Olympic Market

Not many people can relate to my sentiments — not even individuals I’ve spoken to, who were born and raised in Cambodia — but some days, upon reflection, I feel like I could call Phnom Penh home. In the midst of chaos and unease, its crowded streets, polluted air and scorching temperatures, and the poverty and political injustices that loom at large, somehow, there’s a feeling of sweet serenity in Phnom Penh.