Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic: Fairytale town

October 15, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / 2 Comments

Something I appreciate about solo travel is exploring places alone at my own leisurely and spontaneous pace, which I had done throughout most of my trip; other times, I’d meet a fellow solo traveller and we’d explore a city to both of our likings, together. But when it came to visiting Cesky Krumlov, I decided to do something different: I decided to join a group tour.

When I inquired about a group tour to Cesky Krumlov at a nearby Office of Tourism in Prague, they prompted me to a renowned group tour company, which I just had to go to and request to sign up for a tour, and then I was ready to go the following day. The tour cost 1600 CZK — indeed a bit hefty when I could’ve done the trip myself, but given how tricky it was to get there, I decided that it would simplify my time and nerves to just have all the logistics sorted out for me.

It was 9:15am the next morning, I met my tour guide, and the bus was ready to embark on its 2.5 hour journey to the small town of Cesky Krumlov, situated in the South Bohemian region of the Czech Republic. Our tour guide was a lovely and hospitable woman with a great sense of humour. However, I’m ashamed to admit that during our bus ride, there were moments where her monotone voice and heavy accent serenaded me into the deep, dark abyss — something called sleep.

When we arrived at Cesky Krumlov, I stood in awe of what stood before my eyes. The town, which was built to encompass its 13th century Castle, was adorned with beautiful and timeless Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural influences. Sitting on the banks of the Vltava River, Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO World heritage site, and for good reason: the remnants of this old medieval town are a long-standing, historical gem.

I know it’s ironic and defeats the purpose of joining a group tour to meet fellow solo travellers, but the best part about being part of the group tour, was really being allocated the time to explore the town on my own. (Besides, most people on the tour were couples joined at the hip.) So, like a little mouse who had just been let loose from its cage, I scurried away in a frenzy. After all, I didn’t have much time to put on my Sherlock Holmes suit until it was time to meet up again for a final tour together at the Castle.

This boutique, called Cesky Krumlov Original, was my haven; there were cakes, beautifully-lined shelves of jars of homemade jams and honey, and enormous traditional Czech gingerbread cookies carved into themes and characters. I didn’t end up purchasing gingerbread cookies, but I picked out jams (cherry and apricot) to bring back home for loved ones instead. The packaging was adorable, and what’s awesome is that the jams were locally made by the family owners themselves.

Old Town Square at night

Later that evening, the bus dropped us off where we had started our journey: at Old Town Square. Everything looked and felt different in Prague at that time of night — the physique, the vibe, the aroma — as if I were in a different setting altogether. It was interesting to note how cities, no matter where I go, can embody such a stark contrast between night and day.

From Prague to Karlstejn Castle

October 15, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

View from the Klementinum

The Klementinum in Old Town Prague is a very old institution comprising of many historic buildings, the major ones being the Mirror Chapel, the Baroque Library Hall, and the Astronomical Tower. The way to enter this complex is by signing up for a tour on the spot which costs 220 CZK and lasts for about 45-60 minutes.

I was drawn to the Klementium because of the infamous Baroque Library Hall — listed as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. I was astounded when I learned that it houses 20 000 books beginning from the early 17th century, with works from some of Europe’s finest philosophers, scientists, astronomers, and musicians.

We weren’t allowed to take photos of the Baroque Library Hall, unfortunately, but I was simply happy to have been there and experienced its enchanting beauty. A steep climb up the Astronomical Tower later, I was also greeted by a lovely treat: a picturesque view of Prague.

This was the best trdelnik I tried – did you guess it? 😉

Following the tour of the Klementinum, I grabbed another trdelnik to go. I had had five trdelniks during my stay: three plain cinnamon and sugar ones from three different stands, one with chocolate or Nutella (I didn’t take a photo of it), and one with vanilla ice cream (I bought an umbrella and braved the pouring rain just so I could try this last one on my last day in Prague).

I loved the plain cinnamon and sugar trdelnik the most, the best one being from the stand directly across from my hostel. You could tell a place had good eats if everyone (especially locals) were lining up to wait; and how lucky I was, in retrospect, to be greeted by the sweet scent of this delicious creature every time I exited my abode.

Little market selling souvenirs, local fruits, and biscuits and treats

The same day I visited the Klementinum and had a trdelnik, I stumbled across a lovely lady selling strudels at a stand in the market. I had read that the strudel is one of the gems that one ought to try in Prague, so when I saw it, my eyes began salivating even though my tummy was already satisfied.

When I asked the lady which flavour to try — she had apple, poppy, and plum poppy — she recommended her personal favourite: poppy. It was flavourful with a unique texture from the poppy seeds. I also tried the apple strudel the morning I left Prague; it was from the local bakery where I had bought the medovnik cake.

The medovnik or honey cake, a classic Czech cake layered with honey, was another famous dessert I had tried in Prague (this was on a different day as well, I promise). I found it slightly dry with a crumb texture, but at the same time, oh so moist and soft. It wasn’t too sweet either, which I loved.

When I first met this cake, I thought it rather reserved, complex, and hard to get to know. Yet while it looked simple and unassuming, to me it was imbued with secrets and wisdom of the ages. Needless to say, after getting to know it in all its depths, I fell in love and felt transformed, for I knew then and there what I had been missing in all my years of existence.

(I think this post speaks for itself, but while I became a human baguette with four dangly limbs during my time in Paris, I definitely became a walking cube of sugar while in Prague.)

Naturesque scenery on my walk to Karlstejn Castle

Besides having a list of treats to eat in Prague, I also had a list of day trips to take out of the city, with the Karlstejn Castle being one of them. Only 29km southwest of Prague, it made for a convenient day trip, with trains leaving regularly throughout the day from Prague’s Main Station (Hlavní nádrazí), which was about a 5- to 10- minute walk from Wencesclas Square.

I did get confused when I arrived at the station though, because I couldn’t read Czech on my ticket and I wasn’t aware that I’d know the platform number until only 15 minutes before departure. Plus, there was always that one question, “Is this the right train?” which I’d ask the next confused-looking individual, whom I’d often resort to uniting with in solidarity. Funnily, I met an elderly man at the platform who, upon learning that I was from Canada, sarcastically said that he was surprised I wasn’t wearing furry knee high boots. We both laughed.

Once I arrived at the Karlstejn train station, it was a 20- to 30- minute walk up the hill until I reached the Castle. The hike itself was the highlight of my experience; not only were there quaint boutiques, cafes, and restaurants along the way to serenade my eyes, but the gothic Castle looked evermore majestic from a distance.

Prague, Czech Republic: To climb or not to climb

October 10, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

Charles Bridge far off in the distance

Let the dancing begin

View from the Charles Bridge

Yellows

At the foot of the Charles Bridge

Besides the visually striking sights that made Prague so memorable, were the moments where I had connected with fellow human beings. When I visited the John Lennon Wall, a graffiti-filled wall expressing Lennon themes of love and peace as well as grievances since the 80s, I came across an artist whose voice was so harmonic that I became crippled in my tracks. Passersby would pause to admire the Wall and pose in front of it, but more than the Wall itself, I was drawn to a stranger whose music was filled with so much depth and passion that it could’ve breathed poetic existence into dust and ashes.

There was also a time when I deviated off of the Charles Bridge towards a park, and drawn by the familiarity of a tune, I followed the sound until I stumbled upon a young lad who was playing his piano — he was playing Yiruma. “What are the chances of me stumbling across a stranger playing Yiruma in Prague?” I ask myself in awe. I smiled while his playing Yiruma serenaded my stroll in the park. Meanwhile, my heart was on fire, as if it wanted to leap out of my chest because it was happy that someone far away, a stranger somewhere out there, shared the same sentimental and soulful longing and nostalgia. I wanted to thank him for playing Yiruma, but hesitant to disrupt him, I simply walked by, caught his eye and smiled, and continued on.

If someone were to ask me why I was deeply drawn to Prague, it’s because of such snippets in time, moments which felt like an eternity, moments where I felt that I wasn’t isolated in this vast universe. It wasn’t enough for me to know it, but I needed to feel it, to experience it; and these two instances in time made me feel that I was part of something much grander than myself — something universal and cosmic.

Gothic architecture of St Vitus Cathedral

View from a height at the Prague Castle

Inside the Prague Castle complex

My visit to the Prague Castle was a neat experience. When we think of a castle, many of us including myself, would picture just that: a castle. That’s why L couldn’t find or pinpoint the Prague Castle, even though I assured her that it was actually a Castle complex that included churches, palaces, halls, and gardens. One would feel infinitesimally small in comparison, to be sure.

Just a note: The highest fee to get into the Castle complex was 350 CZK, which was the most I had to pay to see “everything.” However, I realized that it didn’t include the price to climb the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral; to do that, I had to pay an extra 150 CZK. For L, it wasn’t worth it for her to pay the 350 CZK if she just wanted to go up the Tower to get a bird’s eye view of the city, but it wasn’t something we noted when we bought the tickets, so make sure to clarify what your tickets include and don’t include.

150 CZK extra and 287 steps to climb later, was the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral worth it? Yes and no. Yes, because I enjoyed the challenging climb, only to be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the city (I also got a free souvenir coin); no, because there are other hills where you can get a comprehensive view of the city without the price tag.

View of the city from the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral

Another view from the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral

Colourful and lively street

After spending the afternoon exploring the Prague Castle, it was time for lunch and I decided to have goulash. I had read that goulash is a staple dish and a must-try in Prague. Hungarian in origin, it’s basically a soup or stew consisting of beef and veggies that’s garnished with paprika and other spices, and that’s often served with bread or bread dumplings. It was hearty and tasted like comfort food — like childhood, even. And with a Czech Pilsner beer, my afternoon meal was complete.

Another view from the Charles Bridge

Prague, Czech Republic: Dobrý den

October 10, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

Market at Wencesclas Square

Prague holds a special place in my heart. Leaving the airport on Bus 119 towards the Nádraží Veleslavín metro station, my eyes scanned the vast sceneries from my window, and immediately I felt an air of relief and calm — contrary to what I had felt when I arrived in Paris.

If Paris was my Clyde, then Prague was my Bonnie. Whereas I had envisioned Paris to engulf my senses in its masculine energy, with its constant hustle and bustle, I had envisioned Prague to be the feminine goddess — mythical and enchanting, with a power to both seduce and excite.

The evening I arrived in Prague, I set out to explore the Old Town, and had my first two tastes of the city: a sausage and the infamous trdelnik, the latter being an iconic street pastry in Prague. It’s basically rolled dough that’s grilled on a stick and then topped with cinnamon and sugar, and sometimes nuts. You could also order them with chocolate (Nutella), ice cream, whip cream and fruit, and the like. My first eat was the plain and classic trdelnik; it was warm, cinnamon-y, and hearty! If you’re a kid at heart, you might just end up playing with your trdelnik, because frankly, they’re fun to pull apart (at least I thought so).

It’s customary for me to research the local and staple eats and make a list of them before venturing to a new place, and being a desserts fanatic, I was ecstatic to try the trdelnik in Prague, except I had originally thought that it would be one of those eats that I’d have to locate on a map and hunt for. To my surprise, when I exited the metro station in the heart of Old Town, trdelnik stands were virtually everywhere; the only real challenge was choosing which stand to try. I ended up eating five of them during my stay, some of which were the plain ol’ classic and some of which had toppings, which you shall see later.

Old Town Square

Prague was indeed a fairytale city (the fine architecture itself transported me back in time), and that’s one of the reasons it’s become a destination attracting crowds of tourists — and it’s also the main reason I scurried away from the main sites like a little mouse.

Astronomical Clock

Fellow travellers were surprised that I stayed in Prague for so long; many people would’ve stayed for a few nights at most before venturing to another city. It was mainly my romanticized notion of the fairytale city that drew me to it and that prompted to stay (I later learned that I have a propensity to romanticize places and everything in my head far too much). At the same time, it was also an economical choice; Prague was inexpensive, and it was majestic. For the budget traveller and the starry-eyed adventurer, that was a sweet deal.

Of course, there were times when I regretted having stayed for so long when I could’ve journeyed to another city; however, after hopping from train to train (with my most recent stop being in Brussels), I realized that travelling can be taxing, and that I wasn’t ready to cover vast surfaces in such a short period of time — at least not now. For my first trip to Europe, I knew that choosing a few countries and spending more time in each would be far more fitting for me. Of course, firsts are always a hit and miss, and thus a bittersweet learning experience. (I know now that buses are dramatically cheaper than trains, and that I needn’t always do round trips in Europe. Of course I had always known this, but I’m prone to making bizarre decisions anyway.)

Paradoxically, although Prague was the most challenging city that I had visited to date in terms of the language barrier, it was also the city that’s gifted me with an unparalleled authentic experience. At least in Paris and Brussels I was able to speak fluent French and manoeuvre myself fluidly, but in the Czech Republic, it was different: I didn’t speak Czech. Moreover, unlike where I had grown up where one is apt to see diverse ethnic backgrounds, the Czech Republic was a homogeneous country — and that’s why I found it so endearing and why it’s gifted me with such a neat learning experience: as an outsider, I was prompted to learn to integrate, and in the process, step out of my comfort zone and grow.

Prior to coming to Prague, I had researched common greetings and phrases, and watched informative YouTube videos. Still, I butchered the melodic language every time I greeted and thanked someone in Czech, but I tried and that was the fun of it, and I could sense that the locals I came across appreciated my effort — another reason I felt welcomed and at home. I’ve learned time and time again that a smile, humility, and an effort to learn go a long way when interacting with locals, no matter where I go.