Paris, France: Tales of arrests and baguettes

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Merci Used Book Cafe @ 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003, Paris

This was the entrance to the Merci Used Book Cafe, or the Cafe itself. If you walk through the gate on the side, you’ll end up in a small courtyard (where my little red car was parked, of course) that leads to Merci’s chic and trendy department store, and through which you may also enter the Cafe.

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Dreams do come true. Merci Used Book Cafe and Shakespeare and Co. have been on my to-go list since time immemorial. I had discovered these two bookstores when I was on Tumblr years ago, and I would often flood my blog with photos of them.

I knew I was going to venture to Merci Used Book Cafe in Le Marais during my time in Paris, but the best part of the excitement was learning that scones were on their menu. Scones constitute my favourite breakfast, and to have it at this dreamy cafe, wow, was I ever on Cloud 9!

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The scones were orange, and so was the jam. The hint of citrus was scrumptious! Their coffee was ace, too. And their butter? Well, let’s just say that any butter in France is tummy- and fat-approved.

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A cozy corner fit for coffee and philosophical discussions on a fine autumn afternoon, don’t you think?

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Besides Merci Used Book Cafe, Eric Kayser’s bakery was also on my to-eat list. I had read that he makes mean baguettes, or mean breads and pastries of all types in general. Many people recommended his financiers, particularly the pistachio financiers.

Being a fan of pistachio desserts myself, I tried one, and it was heavenly — not too sweet and it actually had large chunks of pistachio baked into the cake. Even my partner loved it more than her pain au chocolat.

Eric Kayser’s bakeries are widely dispersed around Paris, so it’s relatively easy to find one while getting lost in one’s exploring adventure. I stumbled upon one quite easily myself when I ventured off the Seine River into the Saint-Germain-des-Près shops area.

Love locked

Love locked

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The following day was low key; it was Juliana’s last day in Paris, and since it was raining, we thought spending the afternoon at the Musée d’Orsay would be ideal.

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Out of all the works of art at the museum, Van Gogh’s paintings were my favourite, not only because they brought back memories of my art classes in high school, but because back then, to me Van Gogh was, and today, still is, one of the most enlightened men who had ever lived (even if throughout his life it seemed otherwise).

Back in high school, I felt enamoured every time I looked at photos of The Starry Night, Starry Night Over the Rhone, Café Terrace at Night, and Bedroom in Arles in art history textbooks; they were among my favourite paintings by Van Gogh. I even tried replicating La méridienne or La sieste with oil pastels (my favourite art medium besides charcoal), and Bedroom in Arles with oil paint and papier-mâché!

I was lucky to see some of his famous paintings at the Musée d’Orsay. Whether it was the younger me in high school looking at his paintings in books, or the current me standing physically in front of his paintings, my feelings never changed: I didn’t see what people would often call a passionate artist, because to me, this man couldn’t be labelled; instead, I saw a regular individual, a human being like you and me, who had reached a depth of self to such a staggering degree, that this painful and sweet process itself became a work of art. And I see in his works of art just that: the depths of his vulnerabilities, in all their madness, darkness, passion, and beauty.

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After navigating the Musée d’Orsay, we walked around looking for a place to eat lunch, until my partner pointed to a cafe/bistro that had just what I’ve been wanting to try: French onion soup, which was perfect for a cold and rainy day.

I wish I remembered what the cafe/bistro was called, because that French onion soup was delicious (and so was their margherita pizza). Some people will cry at the thought, sight, and smell of onions; as for me, I might as well marry them. I love onions so much that I can eat them with anything, even raw (while praying to my biochemical processes that I never smell like one).

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Something else I tried spontaneously was gelato from Amorino. After seeing people licking these purdy looking rose-shaped gelato, Juliana and I both knew we had to try one. A few days later, we saw a family of three eating them again, so we did what normal, sane people would do: we stalked them to trace the whereabouts of the gelato store, and, Bingo.

If I get arrested in Paris, it’s probably because of one or all of the following reasons:

1. Stalking someone because they have good food;

2. Walking over uncharted grass;

3. Whacking someone with a baguette to test its freshness.

There were many incredible flavours to choose from, and you were able to choose however many you wanted. I chose speculoos, pistachio, and fig — the flavours were really nice! At first I thought it was an artisanal gelato chain in France, but to my surprise, I came across one here in Prague, too.

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One of the neat things that we often take for granted, is learning how to survive and perform our normal daily routines in a new country. My first time at a laundromat in Paris was memorable — fun, even. Normally, people don’t equate travel and fun with doing laundry, but for me, it was an opportunity to learn how to live like a local. Of course I had to ask for help, but that was part of the neat experience; and frankly, I found sitting at a laundromat quite calming.

The second time I went to a laundromat, I met a gentleman (sounds like a romantic love story, doesn’t it?) who was, I’d say, about twice my age. I asked him if the machine was working as it should, and this later sparked a conversation. Perhaps it’s my intuition about people, but I read his energy even before we spoke. From his physical appearance alone and the air of malaise and ennui about him, I knew we were similar in profound ways.

Some people — a rarity for me — feel safe at first encounter, as if I recognize them on a soul level. It might sound crazy to some, but it’s an experience many empaths can understand. As it turns out, I wasn’t far off in my observations. I learned that we’ve read the same books and appreciate the same authors, that we think similarly philosophically and ethically, and that we share an overall similar life perspective. This is no love story, but I appreciate having met someone who shares so much with me.

In retrospect, I’m still amazed that the universe can conspire two individuals with such uncanny similarities to meet at such an unusual place. For lonewolves like myself, we often feel alienated and alone in the universe, but when we can connect with someone (at least one other person) who understands us, it feels amazing — more than we can ever articulate in words.

Paris, France: Macarons and gluttony

Opera

Opera

Can you spot my beloved Molière hiding somewhere?

Can you spot my beloved Molière hiding somewhere?

There I am!

There I am!

After becoming familiar myself with the metro and the whereabouts of the main sites, I helped my roommate navigate maps and adopted the role of mother goose. She was a snazzy partner, reason being that I’ve never met anyone who enjoyed taking so many photos of oneself. Nevertheless, she was quite the character and we had a great time.

We started at the Galeries Lafayette and walked to Le Louvre, and continued past the Jardin des Tuileries to la Place de la Concorde, walking across the Champs-Élysées to l’Arc de Triomphe and then to the Trocadéro, and finally, to the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars. A long walk, to be sure!

Ladurée @ 75 Ave. des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris

Ladurée @ 75 Ave. des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris

image image imageimage Eating macarons from Ladurée was one activity I had set to accomplish in Paris. The second time I walked along the Champs-Élysées, I actively sought out this maison classique and purchased a box of six macarons, which cost 17.10€. The six flavours I chose were caramel lemon, orange blossom, iced mint, pecan vanilla, rose petal, and either pistachio or tonka (I forget the last one!).

My initial plan was to take a bite of each flavour and save the rest for the next day, but knowing me, that wasn’t going to happen; and so, I ate all six in one sitting. (In reality it was half on a bench in front of the store and the rest under the Eiffel Tower later that evening.) After all, I’m in Paris and the gods of glutton are in my favour.

I’m no macaron connoisseur, but I must rave a little and say they were divine; the flavouring was edgy and light, with seemingly a hint of parfum. I wish I could bring some home for loved ones, but I’ll be travelling for quite some time.

My camera battery died just as I tried snapping a photo of the macarons, but luckily, it held on to its breath long enough to allow me a final photo at the Trocadéro. I returned home later to grab another spare battery, and I’m glad I did, because Le Jardin du Luxembourg was a heavenly sight — one of my most loved spots in Paris, thus far.

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Trocadéro

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Trocadéro

Palais du Luxembourg, Jardin du Luxembourg

Palais du Luxembourg, Jardin du Luxembourg

Le Panthéon

Le Panthéon

Paris, France: Little red shoes at Le Louvre

imageimageimageimage Solo travel is a treat; you could do whatever your heart desires anytime and anywhere. I had always imagined myself going to an art gallery or museum in Paris alone and getting lost with time; the idea of it is so romantique. And that’s what I did: I ventured to Paris’s monumental and iconic museum by myself, with only my little red shoes for company.

I felt cute that day, with my dress and little red shoes. :)

I felt cute that day, with my dress and little red shoes. 🙂

It was a bright and sunny morning; I woke up early, enjoyed a croissant and coffee breakfast, and took the metro to Le Louvre. At 9:30am the lineups had already begun zigzagging like a maze, and even if I stood in the non-ticket line for almost two hours that morning, it was the most relaxing moment I had experienced to date.

Being alone is wondrous; I could easily blend in and get lost in the commotion of my surroundings. Moreover, the mindless chatter dissipates, time freezes, and my senses sharpen and I become more aware. This time — as I usually do — I played the keen observer and studied the motion of the countless bodies encircling me, until of course it was time to go in.

Le Louvre was immense as I had anticipated — a real beauty, to be sure. Except that it was really crowded — so crowded, I could feel my head spinning. For that reason, I didn’t stay for long, only long enough to do a quick run and to see the Mona Lisa. That painting by Leonardo da Vinci was by far the most sought out piece of artwork, with cameras hovering left and right in the air. I said “hello” to the Mona Lisa and then scurried away from the crowd.

imageimageimageimage After Le Louvre, I walked along the Jardin des Tuileries — a pleasant breath of fresh air away from the enclosed space with dancing bodies. It was a lovely sight seeing everyone relaxing on the grass or on the benches, eating away their sandwiches or, you know, kissing or smooching. I, too, bought myself a baguette sandwich (a delicious salmon one) and sat on a chair under the shade to enjoy the afternoon weather. I could feel my body and mind breathing peacefully, and I sighed with sweet contentment.

Place de la Concorde

Place de la Concorde

L'Arc de Triomphe

L’Arc de Triomphe

Le Jardin des Tuileries was followed by a walk towards the Place de la Concorde, which then led to the Champs Élysées, and at the foot of this long stretch was the Arc de Triomphe.

Sacré-Coeur

Sacré-Coeur

imageimage imageimage It was a long day of walking and exploring the vicinities of different arrondisements, and needing a quick rest, I returned to my hostel, only to encounter two new fantastic roommates: J from Brazil and O from Spain, and together we ventured to explore Montmartre, and just like all areas of Paris, it was imbued with its own quirky culture and vibe.

Paris, France: Postcards from me to you

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Dearest Friends, I’m now in Paris, and hereby send you virtual postcards (through photos, that is)! Despite feeling a bit jet-lagged from the time zone difference, I mustered the energy to visit some of the city’s iconic spots; I found my abode, dropped off my luggage, and sailed with the wind. After all, I’m in Paris, which means that there’s no time to waste!

Notre Dame Cathedral

Notre Dame Cathedral

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I’d initially planned to climb the Notre Dame towers, as it’s one of the main sites to get a neat, comprehensive view of the city with fearsome (and super cool) gargoyles for company, but then I realized that I was too optimistic; the line up was as long as the Nile River. I didn’t get to go inside either, as the line up for that was even more serpentine. This was surprising to me as I’d expected September to be the off-season, but then again, who am I kidding, it’s Paris! Nevertheless, for now I got to admire the Cathedral’s fine French gothic architectural details from the outside, instead.

Bouquinistes along the Seine River

Bouquinistes along the Seine River

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I knew I was in Paris when, walking along the Seine River, I see two iconic sceneries: people eating their French baguette sandwiches by the water, and the stands of bouquinistes along the Seine, which sell old, antique books and reading materials. It was eye candy-type eyesight; I even bought a newspaper for my sister’s print collection.

Shakespeare & Co

Shakespeare & Co

My one-sided relationship with Shakespeare & Co goes back about six years ago. I’d discovered this magical bookstore on Tumblr, and over the years, flooded my blog with photos of it while praying to the literary gods and the travel goddesses to take me to my dream bookstore. A quaint, antique, local bookshop in Paris? How friggin’ romantique for the bookworm! And now that I’ve experienced the bookstore, I feel like I’ve successfully lived my life purpose and can now retire as an old lady.

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The Latin Quarter and St-Germain-des-Prés area had some picturesque side streets and nooks and crannies. In the last photo (spot him, if you please), the man waved at me and thanked me for snapping a photo of him. My day was made thanks to his lighthearted nature, and thanks to the kind, hospitable locals who helped me find my way.

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I ended my first day in Paris at the Eiffel Tower, and like an old lady, retired home at 4pm. I needed sleep and my brain needed to recuperate (the commotion and hustle and bustle of cities can be taxing for an introvert’s physical, emotional, and spiritual well-being). Moreover, I knew that tomorrow an early and long day was awaiting me: I was journeying to Le Louvre!

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When I arrived at CDG Airport, I could feel the excitement creep in; it felt surreal to finally be in Paris after all the years of wishing, dreaming, and romanticizing about the “City of Love.” But when I arrived in the city centre, I experienced the harsh reality of what constitutes la vie quotidienne in Paris — a fact that applies anywhere in the world — and my utopian sentiment was shattered. I also began feeling spiritually malade, and for various reasons.

This was surprising, even to me, because I’ve talked about Paris and loved it blindly since time immemorial. But then again, I don’t think I’ve ever fallen in love with any city at first sight. Be it for a place or a human being, for me, fondness has always grown slowly over time; only once I’ve experienced an elemental degree of depth, can I then love with steadfast, unswerving conviction. That’s why I’m looking forward to day two and to subsequent days: I know that it’ll only get better.