Brussels, Belgium: The Three Amigos

October 23, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / 1 Comment

Town Hall at Grand Place

Guildhalls on the Grand Place

Grand Place (French) or Grote Markt (Dutch); central square of Brussels

Each place is imbued with its respective characteristics, and there are aspects that I appreciated dearly about every city I visited, be it its fine architecture and historical artifacts, the local food and people, or the overarching feeling of belonging and oneness that I experienced. While I spent the least amount of time in Brussels, my experience there was a colourful one. It was simultaneously the city where I’d experienced the greatest sense of unease, and the city that had armed me with unparalleled emotional comfort.

When I arrived in Brussels, I felt spiritually nauseous. It might’ve been because the sky was dark and gloomy (I was also sheepishly sick with a raging cold), but it was also much deeper than that — an overall feeling that I couldn’t pinpoint or articulate in words. It was when I arrived at my hostel and met my roommates, that I learned that there had been a few incidents the day prior. Thus I understood why armed soldiers were roaming metro stations, and why there were military vehicles lining the street a short distance from my abode. Of course, this sight wasn’t new to me; I had seen it in Paris. However, if I was aware of the slight chance of any incident happening in Paris, then I was also aware of it in Brussels — and tenfold.

I didn’t like that eerie awareness. I didn’t like that my mind was being inundated with suggestive imageries and programmed into fear. I knew, statistically speaking, that the chances of anything occurring were much lower than the chances of crimes happening back at home and dying in motor vehicle accidents. Being a skeptical person, I was also careful not to allow my private sphere of thought to be proliferated and my psyche to be governed, and to fall into the trap of collective neurosis and fear. At the same time, that’s not to say that I wasn’t alert or cautious every breath I took — I was. Yet I was bent to enjoy my time there and everywhere I went, because to live in a state of fear is crippling.

On the other hand, I thought I was alone in experiencing an off-putting vibe in the cities I visited — until I met my roommate, Y. She, too, had just left Paris, and meeting her felt as though I was meeting a twin — similar in thought and character and life experiences. Like myself, she had experienced a magnetic pull towards certain cities, only to be greeted with the harsh realities of these places; and it was in her experiences that I found solace and comfort. There was also N, another roommate, whose hobbies and interests mirrored mine almost completely. (Geeks can easily recognize other geeks.) I have these two lovely individuals to thank, for they were the catalysts behind me having such an exciting and heartfelt time in Brussels. (After Brussels, N and I even met again in Paris, where I had returned to for the nth time.)

It’s an enticing thought, in retrospect, how travel can fuel synchronistic events such that you end up meeting similar souls (and starkly different ones) along the way, that would serve as catalysts along your journey of evolution and growth. It reminded me of a man I’d met at a laundromat in Paris (I’d like to remember him as the lone artist philosopher), and J, another friend I’d spent much time with, whose personality was uncannily similar to someone that was once part of my life. There was also the hostel receptionist in Paris, whose friendly and bright disposition made me understand why I’d subconsciously done the things I’d done in the past — and why, in the final analysis, it was for the best. For that brief moment in time, their mark on me was profound: I learned that I’d healed and was capable of opening my heart again.

Carbonnades Flamandes à la Leffe Brune, Frites

Strawberry waffle from Mokafé

Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert

The Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert is a very old and classic shopping strip built in the mid-nineteenth century. You can find boutiques selling luxurious items such as fashionable clothes, hats and gloves, jewellery, and chocolates. There were a few notable chocolate shops, one of them being Neuhaus, founded in 1857 by Jean Neuhaus, who had apparently created the praline. I purchased a few boxes to bring home and a customized bag for myself to enjoy that day. The chocolates were absolutely divine. Brace yourself though, because the infinite flavours and selections can be at once heavenly and overwhelming.

You can also find classic cafes at the Galeries, one of them being the widely visited Mokafé, known for its delicious authentic Belgian waffles, which the three of us tried together. I had a regular waffle topped with powdered sugar and strawberries, which I didn’t find special — I found it too crispy and rather flat in taste. I shall give the cafe a benefit of a doubt, but perhaps it was because they were in a rush to serve customers and were short on staff, with only one server that day. It was a Saturday and the cafe was full to the brim, and people left because they were waiting too long to be served. But I felt for the server; he was a nice guy who was running to and fro. Kudos to him, he deserved a cape.

During my time in Brussels, I also visited Maison Dandoy, a very old sweets shop created in 1829 by Jean-Baptiste Dandoy. They specialize in biscuits and are known for their speculoos cookies. I purchased a package of speculoos biscuits from one of their quaint biscuit shops, and after finishing the package, I wish I’d bought more. (I wish I’d also taken a photo of the shop.) There are a few Maison Dandoy shops around Brussels as well as tea rooms. Apparently, they also make fine Belgian waffles.

My time in Brussels was short and I regret having spent the least amount of time there, for there were activities that I wish I’d had the time to do, such as going to the Belgian Comic Strip Center and the Musée Hergé, and simply walking around exploring Brussels’ comics-based street art murals, which I really looked forward to. Brussels is the hub of comics, and if you grew up with older siblings who read Belgian comic books like the infamous Les Aventures de Tintin, then you’d have an appreciation for them, too.

From Prague to Karlstejn Castle

October 15, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

View from the Klementinum

The Klementinum in Old Town Prague is a very old institution comprising of many historic buildings, the major ones being the Mirror Chapel, the Baroque Library Hall, and the Astronomical Tower. The way to enter this complex is by signing up for a tour on the spot which costs 220 CZK and lasts for about 45-60 minutes.

I was drawn to the Klementium because of the infamous Baroque Library Hall — listed as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. I was astounded when I learned that it houses 20 000 books beginning from the early 17th century, with works from some of Europe’s finest philosophers, scientists, astronomers, and musicians.

We weren’t allowed to take photos of the Baroque Library Hall, unfortunately, but I was simply happy to have been there and experienced its enchanting beauty. A steep climb up the Astronomical Tower later, I was also greeted by a lovely treat: a picturesque view of Prague.

This was the best trdelnik I tried – did you guess it? 😉

Following the tour of the Klementinum, I grabbed another trdelnik to go. I had had five trdelniks during my stay: three plain cinnamon and sugar ones from three different stands, one with chocolate or Nutella (I didn’t take a photo of it), and one with vanilla ice cream (I bought an umbrella and braved the pouring rain just so I could try this last one on my last day in Prague).

I loved the plain cinnamon and sugar trdelnik the most, the best one being from the stand directly across from my hostel. You could tell a place had good eats if everyone (especially locals) were lining up to wait; and how lucky I was, in retrospect, to be greeted by the sweet scent of this delicious creature every time I exited my abode.

Little market selling souvenirs, local fruits, and biscuits and treats

The same day I visited the Klementinum and had a trdelnik, I stumbled across a lovely lady selling strudels at a stand in the market. I had read that the strudel is one of the gems that one ought to try in Prague, so when I saw it, my eyes began salivating even though my tummy was already satisfied.

When I asked the lady which flavour to try — she had apple, poppy, and plum poppy — she recommended her personal favourite: poppy. It was flavourful with a unique texture from the poppy seeds. I also tried the apple strudel the morning I left Prague; it was from the local bakery where I had bought the medovnik cake.

The medovnik or honey cake, a classic Czech cake layered with honey, was another famous dessert I had tried in Prague (this was on a different day as well, I promise). I found it slightly dry with a crumb texture, but at the same time, oh so moist and soft. It wasn’t too sweet either, which I loved.

When I first met this cake, I thought it rather reserved, complex, and hard to get to know. Yet while it looked simple and unassuming, to me it was imbued with secrets and wisdom of the ages. Needless to say, after getting to know it in all its depths, I fell in love and felt transformed, for I knew then and there what I had been missing in all my years of existence.

(I think this post speaks for itself, but while I became a human baguette with four dangly limbs during my time in Paris, I definitely became a walking cube of sugar while in Prague.)

Naturesque scenery on my walk to Karlstejn Castle

Besides having a list of treats to eat in Prague, I also had a list of day trips to take out of the city, with the Karlstejn Castle being one of them. Only 29km southwest of Prague, it made for a convenient day trip, with trains leaving regularly throughout the day from Prague’s Main Station (Hlavní nádrazí), which was about a 5- to 10- minute walk from Wencesclas Square.

I did get confused when I arrived at the station though, because I couldn’t read Czech on my ticket and I wasn’t aware that I’d know the platform number until only 15 minutes before departure. Plus, there was always that one question, “Is this the right train?” which I’d ask the next confused-looking individual, whom I’d often resort to uniting with in solidarity. Funnily, I met an elderly man at the platform who, upon learning that I was from Canada, sarcastically said that he was surprised I wasn’t wearing furry knee high boots. We both laughed.

Once I arrived at the Karlstejn train station, it was a 20- to 30- minute walk up the hill until I reached the Castle. The hike itself was the highlight of my experience; not only were there quaint boutiques, cafes, and restaurants along the way to serenade my eyes, but the gothic Castle looked evermore majestic from a distance.

Prague, Czech Republic: To climb or not to climb

October 10, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

Charles Bridge far off in the distance

Let the dancing begin

View from the Charles Bridge

Yellows

At the foot of the Charles Bridge

Besides the visually striking sights that made Prague so memorable, were the moments where I had connected with fellow human beings. When I visited the John Lennon Wall, a graffiti-filled wall expressing Lennon themes of love and peace as well as grievances since the 80s, I came across an artist whose voice was so harmonic that I became crippled in my tracks. Passersby would pause to admire the Wall and pose in front of it, but more than the Wall itself, I was drawn to a stranger whose music was filled with so much depth and passion that it could’ve breathed poetic existence into dust and ashes.

There was also a time when I deviated off of the Charles Bridge towards a park, and drawn by the familiarity of a tune, I followed the sound until I stumbled upon a young lad who was playing his piano — he was playing Yiruma. “What are the chances of me stumbling across a stranger playing Yiruma in Prague?” I ask myself in awe. I smiled while his playing Yiruma serenaded my stroll in the park. Meanwhile, my heart was on fire, as if it wanted to leap out of my chest because it was happy that someone far away, a stranger somewhere out there, shared the same sentimental and soulful longing and nostalgia. I wanted to thank him for playing Yiruma, but hesitant to disrupt him, I simply walked by, caught his eye and smiled, and continued on.

If someone were to ask me why I was deeply drawn to Prague, it’s because of such snippets in time, moments which felt like an eternity, moments where I felt that I wasn’t isolated in this vast universe. It wasn’t enough for me to know it, but I needed to feel it, to experience it; and these two instances in time made me feel that I was part of something much grander than myself — something universal and cosmic.

Gothic architecture of St Vitus Cathedral

View from a height at the Prague Castle

Inside the Prague Castle complex

My visit to the Prague Castle was a neat experience. When we think of a castle, many of us including myself, would picture just that: a castle. That’s why L couldn’t find or pinpoint the Prague Castle, even though I assured her that it was actually a Castle complex that included churches, palaces, halls, and gardens. One would feel infinitesimally small in comparison, to be sure.

Just a note: The highest fee to get into the Castle complex was 350 CZK, which was the most I had to pay to see “everything.” However, I realized that it didn’t include the price to climb the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral; to do that, I had to pay an extra 150 CZK. For L, it wasn’t worth it for her to pay the 350 CZK if she just wanted to go up the Tower to get a bird’s eye view of the city, but it wasn’t something we noted when we bought the tickets, so make sure to clarify what your tickets include and don’t include.

150 CZK extra and 287 steps to climb later, was the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral worth it? Yes and no. Yes, because I enjoyed the challenging climb, only to be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the city (I also got a free souvenir coin); no, because there are other hills where you can get a comprehensive view of the city without the price tag.

View of the city from the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral

Another view from the Great South Tower of St Vitus Cathedral

Colourful and lively street

After spending the afternoon exploring the Prague Castle, it was time for lunch and I decided to have goulash. I had read that goulash is a staple dish and a must-try in Prague. Hungarian in origin, it’s basically a soup or stew consisting of beef and veggies that’s garnished with paprika and other spices, and that’s often served with bread or bread dumplings. It was hearty and tasted like comfort food — like childhood, even. And with a Czech Pilsner beer, my afternoon meal was complete.

Another view from the Charles Bridge

Prague, Czech Republic: Dobrý den

October 10, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

Market at Wencesclas Square

Prague holds a special place in my heart. Leaving the airport on Bus 119 towards the Nádraží Veleslavín metro station, my eyes scanned the vast sceneries from my window, and immediately I felt an air of relief and calm — contrary to what I had felt when I arrived in Paris.

If Paris was my Clyde, then Prague was my Bonnie. Whereas I had envisioned Paris to engulf my senses in its masculine energy, with its constant hustle and bustle, I had envisioned Prague to be the feminine goddess — mythical and enchanting, with a power to both seduce and excite.

The evening I arrived in Prague, I set out to explore the Old Town, and had my first two tastes of the city: a sausage and the infamous trdelnik, the latter being an iconic street pastry in Prague. It’s basically rolled dough that’s grilled on a stick and then topped with cinnamon and sugar, and sometimes nuts. You could also order them with chocolate (Nutella), ice cream, whip cream and fruit, and the like. My first eat was the plain and classic trdelnik; it was warm, cinnamon-y, and hearty! If you’re a kid at heart, you might just end up playing with your trdelnik, because frankly, they’re fun to pull apart (at least I thought so).

It’s customary for me to research the local and staple eats and make a list of them before venturing to a new place, and being a desserts fanatic, I was ecstatic to try the trdelnik in Prague, except I had originally thought that it would be one of those eats that I’d have to locate on a map and hunt for. To my surprise, when I exited the metro station in the heart of Old Town, trdelnik stands were virtually everywhere; the only real challenge was choosing which stand to try. I ended up eating five of them during my stay, some of which were the plain ol’ classic and some of which had toppings, which you shall see later.

Old Town Square

Prague was indeed a fairytale city (the fine architecture itself transported me back in time), and that’s one of the reasons it’s become a destination attracting crowds of tourists — and it’s also the main reason I scurried away from the main sites like a little mouse.

Astronomical Clock

Fellow travellers were surprised that I stayed in Prague for so long; many people would’ve stayed for a few nights at most before venturing to another city. It was mainly my romanticized notion of the fairytale city that drew me to it and that prompted to stay (I later learned that I have a propensity to romanticize places and everything in my head far too much). At the same time, it was also an economical choice; Prague was inexpensive, and it was majestic. For the budget traveller and the starry-eyed adventurer, that was a sweet deal.

Of course, there were times when I regretted having stayed for so long when I could’ve journeyed to another city; however, after hopping from train to train (with my most recent stop being in Brussels), I realized that travelling can be taxing, and that I wasn’t ready to cover vast surfaces in such a short period of time — at least not now. For my first trip to Europe, I knew that choosing a few countries and spending more time in each would be far more fitting for me. Of course, firsts are always a hit and miss, and thus a bittersweet learning experience. (I know now that buses are dramatically cheaper than trains, and that I needn’t always do round trips in Europe. Of course I had always known this, but I’m prone to making bizarre decisions anyway.)

Paradoxically, although Prague was the most challenging city that I had visited to date in terms of the language barrier, it was also the city that’s gifted me with an unparalleled authentic experience. At least in Paris and Brussels I was able to speak fluent French and manoeuvre myself fluidly, but in the Czech Republic, it was different: I didn’t speak Czech. Moreover, unlike where I had grown up where one is apt to see diverse ethnic backgrounds, the Czech Republic was a homogeneous country — and that’s why I found it so endearing and why it’s gifted me with such a neat learning experience: as an outsider, I was prompted to learn to integrate, and in the process, step out of my comfort zone and grow.

Prior to coming to Prague, I had researched common greetings and phrases, and watched informative YouTube videos. Still, I butchered the melodic language every time I greeted and thanked someone in Czech, but I tried and that was the fun of it, and I could sense that the locals I came across appreciated my effort — another reason I felt welcomed and at home. I’ve learned time and time again that a smile, humility, and an effort to learn go a long way when interacting with locals, no matter where I go.

Paris, France: Macarons and gluttony

September 26, 2016May 11, 2020 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

Opera

Can you spot my beloved Molière hiding somewhere?

There I am!

After becoming familiar myself with the metro and the whereabouts of the main sites, I helped my roommate navigate maps and adopted the role of mother goose. She was a snazzy partner, reason being that I’ve never met anyone who enjoyed taking so many photos of oneself. Nevertheless, she was quite the character and we had a great time.

We started at the Galeries Lafayette and walked to Le Louvre, and continued past the Jardin des Tuileries to la Place de la Concorde, walking across the Champs-Élysées to l’Arc de Triomphe and then to the Trocadéro, and finally, to the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars. A long walk, to be sure!

Ladurée @ 75 Ave. des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris

Eating macarons from Ladurée was one activity I had set to accomplish in Paris. The second time I walked along the Champs-Élysées, I actively sought out this maison classique and purchased a box of six macarons, which cost 17.10€. The six flavours I chose were caramel lemon, orange blossom, iced mint, pecan vanilla, rose petal, and either pistachio or tonka (I forget the last one!).

My initial plan was to take a bite of each flavour and save the rest for the next day, but knowing me, that wasn’t going to happen; and so, I ate all six in one sitting. (In reality it was half on a bench in front of the store and the rest under the Eiffel Tower later that evening.) After all, I’m in Paris and the gods of glutton are in my favour.

I’m no macaron connoisseur, but I must rave a little and say they were divine; the flavouring was edgy and light, with seemingly a hint of parfum. I wish I could bring some home for loved ones, but I’ll be travelling for quite some time.

My camera battery died just as I tried snapping a photo of the macarons, but luckily, it held on to its breath long enough to allow me a final photo at the Trocadéro. I returned home later to grab another spare battery, and I’m glad I did, because Le Jardin du Luxembourg was a heavenly sight — one of my most loved spots in Paris, thus far.

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Trocadéro

Palais du Luxembourg, Jardin du Luxembourg

Le Panthéon

Paris, France: Little red shoes at Le Louvre

September 26, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

Solo travel is a treat; you could do whatever your heart desires anytime and anywhere. I had always imagined myself going to an art gallery or museum in Paris alone and getting lost with time; the idea of it is so romantique. And that’s what I did: I ventured to Paris’s monumental and iconic museum by myself, with only my little red shoes for company.

I felt cute that day, with my dress and little red shoes. 🙂

It was a bright and sunny morning; I woke up early, enjoyed a croissant and coffee breakfast, and took the metro to Le Louvre. At 9:30am the lineups had already begun zigzagging like a maze, and even if I stood in the non-ticket line for almost two hours that morning, it was the most relaxing moment I had experienced to date.

Being alone is wondrous; I could easily blend in and get lost in the commotion of my surroundings. Moreover, the mindless chatter dissipates, time freezes, and my senses sharpen and I become more aware. This time — as I usually do — I played the keen observer and studied the motion of the countless bodies encircling me, until of course it was time to go in.

Le Louvre was immense as I had anticipated — a real beauty, to be sure. Except that it was really crowded — so crowded, I could feel my head spinning. For that reason, I didn’t stay for long, only long enough to do a quick run and to see the Mona Lisa. That painting by Leonardo da Vinci was by far the most sought out piece of artwork, with cameras hovering left and right in the air. I said “hello” to the Mona Lisa and then scurried away from the crowd.

After Le Louvre, I walked along the Jardin des Tuileries — a pleasant breath of fresh air away from the enclosed space with dancing bodies. It was a lovely sight seeing everyone relaxing on the grass or on the benches, eating away their sandwiches or, you know, kissing or smooching. I, too, bought myself a baguette sandwich (a delicious salmon one) and sat on a chair under the shade to enjoy the afternoon weather. I could feel my body and mind breathing peacefully, and I sighed with sweet contentment.

Place de la Concorde

L’Arc de Triomphe

Le Jardin des Tuileries was followed by a walk towards the Place de la Concorde, which then led to the Champs Élysées, and at the foot of this long stretch was the Arc de Triomphe.

Sacré-Coeur

It was a long day of walking and exploring the vicinities of different arrondisements, and needing a quick rest, I returned to my hostel, only to encounter two new fantastic roommates: J from Brazil and O from Spain, and together we ventured to explore Montmartre, and just like all areas of Paris, it was imbued with its own quirky culture and vibe.

Paris, France: Postcards from me to you

September 20, 2016March 18, 2021 / toumemoir / Leave a comment

Dearest Friends, I’m now in Paris, and hereby send you virtual postcards (through photos, that is)! Despite feeling a bit jet-lagged from the time zone difference, I mustered the energy to visit some of the city’s iconic spots; I found my abode, dropped off my luggage, and sailed with the wind. After all, I’m in Paris, which means that there’s no time to waste!

Notre Dame Cathedral

I’d initially planned to climb the Notre Dame towers, as it’s one of the main sites to get a neat, comprehensive view of the city with fearsome (and super cool) gargoyles for company, but then I realized that I was too optimistic; the line up was as long as the Nile River. I didn’t get to go inside either, as the line up for that was even more serpentine. This was surprising to me as I’d expected September to be the off-season, but then again, who am I kidding, it’s Paris! Nevertheless, for now I got to admire the Cathedral’s fine French gothic architectural details from the outside, instead.

Bouquinistes along the Seine River

I knew I was in Paris when, walking along the Seine River, I see two iconic sceneries: people eating their French baguette sandwiches by the water, and the stands of bouquinistes along the Seine, which sell old, antique books and reading materials. It was eye candy-type eyesight; I even bought a newspaper for my sister’s print collection.

Shakespeare & Co

My one-sided relationship with Shakespeare & Co goes back about six years ago. I’d discovered this magical bookstore on Tumblr, and over the years, flooded my blog with photos of it while praying to the literary gods and the travel goddesses to take me to my dream bookstore. A quaint, antique, local bookshop in Paris? How friggin’ romantique for the bookworm! And now that I’ve experienced the bookstore, I feel like I’ve successfully lived my life purpose and can now retire as an old lady.

The Latin Quarter and St-Germain-des-Prés area had some picturesque side streets and nooks and crannies. In the last photo (spot him, if you please), the man waved at me and thanked me for snapping a photo of him. My day was made thanks to his lighthearted nature, and thanks to the kind, hospitable locals who helped me find my way.

I ended my first day in Paris at the Eiffel Tower, and like an old lady, retired home at 4pm. I needed sleep and my brain needed to recuperate (the commotion and hustle and bustle of cities can be taxing for an introvert’s physical, emotional, and spiritual well-being). Moreover, I knew that tomorrow an early and long day was awaiting me: I was journeying to Le Louvre!

When I arrived at CDG Airport, I could feel the excitement creep in; it felt surreal to finally be in Paris after all the years of wishing, dreaming, and romanticizing about the “City of Love.” But when I arrived in the city centre, I experienced the harsh reality of what constitutes la vie quotidienne in Paris — a fact that applies anywhere in the world — and my utopian sentiment was shattered. I also began feeling spiritually malade, and for various reasons.

This was surprising, even to me, because I’ve talked about Paris and loved it blindly since time immemorial. But then again, I don’t think I’ve ever fallen in love with any city at first sight. Be it for a place or a human being, for me, fondness has always grown slowly over time; only once I’ve experienced an elemental degree of depth, can I then love with steadfast, unswerving conviction. That’s why I’m looking forward to day two and to subsequent days: I know that it’ll only get better.